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Krick Type Vll

krick type Vll page 2


krick type Vll review
I received my kit yesterday thanks ward
I have to say it is much smaller than I thought probably due to all the robbe kits I build. it arrived with a hole in the outer and inner box postal monkeys!
lots of stuff in there but the box weighs less than20 pounds
the hull is vacmolded in half split down the middle vertivcally from bow to stern,the decks are quite dissapointing they ment well but fell well short of the goal they are vacmolded very thin styrene and all those flood holes need to be cut open or drilled with a .001 bit yuck cut them open and sand off the excess off the back much easyer
the tower and acompaning parts are all vac molded turdy even more so than the robbe stuff nice.the boat has a vacmolded ballast tank that sits on top of the pressure hull .
the latter being quite roomy if you think through your arrangment of gear and toss out the plan inlcuded with the kit
they suggest only 2 servos ,1 for bow planes ,1 for rudder WHAT NO STERN PLANES? there is room in there if you use mini servos or one small gell cell and not the 2 nicad packs suggested ouch no run time at all and talk about heat WOW
making the stern planes operational will be a challenge but definately doable. there are lots of cast metal deck fittings nicely done and all the linkage,control arms etc,etc
the hull has some strange flood pattern holes on the sides I am unaware of these on any plan or print of the original so these will be filled over
over all impresion is good its a nice small boat that can travel with you it might even fit in an overhead on the plane
I give it 3 and a half stars out of 5
ca check my site next week for pics

I will try to enter new tips and hints once a month
This pae will give you tips and hints on shortcuts or better ways to build including alterations to kits that I have build many of and now use my own form of instructions
I welcome all new ideas
  hints and tips
when speaking of stern tubes I never use oil only prathers cable grease it is the best and you will never have to reapply it . it is a silicone grease cost 4 bucks a jar and the jar lasts for ever I hate what oil does to a nicly painted hull

the main thing to do with this kit is make a better
stronger screw joiner using full length threaded brass rod.
some other things to do is make a brass rudder support since the kit supplied one is quite flimsy

Subtech's Albacore
The main thing here is while lining up the prop shaft and tube befoe everything is tacked in drop the pressure hull(attached to its bulheads) in and join the couplers with the dogbone then tack the pressure hull bulkheads in place with ca making sure the propshaft is alined properly now tack the shafttube bulkhead in place and then pull out the tube a few inches and appy a ring of ca the the end and slide it in place then twist it to ensure it has full coverage now tack the tailcone in place
install the control surfaces and yokes with linkages before this step trust me it really is less frustrating not having the whole lower hull in your way
tip for control surfaces
the dive planes need to be sanded or filed down considerable on their forward edges to leave plenty of room for movement you need to take at least 1/8 inch off then recontour the edge again another nice tip is drill out the dive plane hole one size over the brass rod as it is quite tight and often leads to damgdeing the tailcone while trying to install these rods now apply a small drop of ca in the setscew hole then put the screw in.
hint if the ballast tank top is too high it is much easyer to flatten it with a moist towel and hot iron tha it is to cut it off and reglue

hints and tips
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hints and tips
more to come